The Perfect Keweenaw Day by Erin Resteiner

You know those days where you feel complete and utter joy and if you were to sit quietly for a moment to do a self check-in, you would find you were perfectly content? Ethan and I had a day like that in the Keweenaw Peninsula recently, and I simultaneously want to tell everyone about it and urge them to travel north ASAP and also tell NO ONE and keep the secret to myself. In Northern Michigan, once Labor Day comes and goes, life seems to slow down a bit. Kids are back in school, the weather is shifting, and people fall back into routine. Which means it is the perfect time to head up north and avoid crowds while still enjoying the last fleeting moments of summer. So, that’s just what we did!We finalized a few things for The Highway, dropped the boys off to grandma and grandpa’s, and set out on our U.P. road trip! We spent time in Houghton, Eagle Harbor, Copper Harbor, Lac La Belle, and Marquette, all of which filled up my little once-yooper heart. Before I go any further, I want to be clear that there are literally hundreds of things you could choose to do with your time in the Keweenaw, but the full day we spent could. not. have. been. better. so I have formatted this into a handy little 10-step guide, but feel free to take some of these and choose your own adventure!

Step 1: Wake up at True North Cabin

The foundation of what made our trip so special was by far our stay at True North Cabin. Positioned at the most northern point in Michigan, this AirBnB is surrounded on three sides by dense woods and opens up to a stunning panoramic of Lake Superior. I had been following True North on Instagram for months watching their renovation process and felt straight up giddy to be visiting in their first season! I had seen the pictures and followed along with every detail shared, but I was not at all prepared for the visceral feeling that washed over me standing out on the back deck watching the waves crash into the rocks. It is honestly unreal, and I cannot recommend staying here enough. *Also, we grabbed coffee with owners, Lynn and Jason, on our way back through Hancock and they are the kindest and most thoughtful people and I look forward to making that coffee date an annual one!

Step 2: Make a bomb.com breakfast

(This is really just a continuation on step 1, but it was so good that it is worthy of its own section)

Some trips are meant to be action packed and full of hustle, but this one I just wanted to relax. Which is quite easy to do at True North, because there is no cell service or wifi and that disconnection is really wholesome these days. I wanted to ensure that we made the most of our stay, so we opted to do several meals at the cabin. I found this Shakshuka with Feta recipe, and it was so goooood. We ate at the dining table that looks directly out to the lake and I feel very strongly that this is how mornings are supposed to be.

Step 3: Visit Jampot

Once we ate, cleaned up, and got around for the day we drove to Jampot, which is just over a 20 minute drive from the cabin on the most beautiful coastline road. See here:

Gorgeous, right?

Jampot is humble storefront along scenic M-26 operated by the monks of Holy Transfiguration Skete, a Byzantine Catholic monastery. Home to Poorrock Abbey preserves and a selection of confections and cakes, you have to make this a stop if you are up in the Keweenaw Peninsula. Pick up some wild raspberry jam and, if they have them, you must try a Thimbleberry Triumph. From the store, you can sit at picnic tables and enjoy your treats while getting a good view of the monastery across the road.

Step 4: A little walk along the beach

You can pretty much pick any of the public parks along M-26 to stop and you will be met with jaw-dropping natural beauty. We ended up pulling over at The Great Sand Bay (here) and just taking it in for a while.

Step 5: Drive up Brockway Mtn

From Eagle Harbor, you can continue east along M-26 OR you can turn onto Brockway Mountain Drive and climb up the mountain for some great photo ops! It’s not snow plowed in the winter, so this one is really only possible in good weather conditions. While we didn’t do it this trip, a sunrise or sunset is stunning up there so if you can fit it into your plans, I recommend it. Once you’ve climbed to the top, you’ll test your brakes journeying down and find yourself in Copper Harbor.

Step 6: Eat lunch at Mariner North

Once in Copper Harbor, there are a great selection of shops featuring local artists and other unique goods. There are a few restaurants here, and we settled on Mariner North for lunch. We found ourselves at the bar with a beer and bloody mary, and enjoyed a sandwich and salad. Super tasty, and they had a lot of vegetarian and gluten friendly options if that’s something you need!

*We hoped to stop at Brickside Brewery across the road, but unfortunately we weren’t there when they were open, so we have it on our list for next time!

Step 7: Go for a hike

In the afternoon, we set out to hike to Montreal River - the upper and lower falls. This hike follows the coastline of Superior and if you're looking for a hike that features the roar of waves crashing and views of the water around every bend, this one's for you! It gets to be fairly rugged terrain, but the elevation doesn’t vary all that much so as long as you have a good set of hiking boots and watch your footing, it’s a pretty easy trek. We spent about 3 hours out here, but we did stop to take a lot of pictures. I would definitely recommend giving yourself an ample amount of time to really enjoy the scenery.

Getting to the trailhead:

(sourced from the Keweenaw Adventure Guide, a great resource for all things Keweenaw!)

“From Hancock drive north on US-41 to Phoenix, then drive 10.4 miles to the Lac La Belle Road. Turn right and drive 4.7 miles to the bottom of the steep hill in Lac La Belle. Turn left and continue about 2 miles to Smith Fishery Road and turn left. Follow this road approximately five miles to the end. This entire single-lane road is private property but as a visitor you are tolerated, so drive carefully, and yield to oncoming traffic. At the end you will see a stone pillared fence, turn left. The owners have graciously provided you access while protecting their privacy, so honor this privilege. Two hundred yards ahead are the four or five parking spaces. The road is marked PRIVATE, but access is available to the small parking area near the Smith Fisheries. (The State of Michigan Forest boundary is part way down the trail Someday there will be access to the falls over public land but until then, honor the land owners who maintain this private road access) The hike to the mouth of the Montreal River is a winding one mile shoreline trail plagued with wind falls.”

Step 8: Shots, shots, shots

Just kidding! But if that’s your thing, go for it babe. We settled for a beer and a glass of wine on the deck of Fitzgerald’s. We actually had eaten dinner here the night before, on Lynn and Jason’s recommendation (thanks, guys!). They have a huge selection of bottle/canned brews, wine by the glass and bottle, and their spirit list is long. The food was really yummy - we had smoked brisket and pulled pork, but the highlights for me were their pickled veggies and… this was unexpected… their freakin’ creamed corn. GOL DANG. It was so good. Definitely get reservations, because it’s an intimate dining room, and they fill up fast. And I don’t care what else you order, get the creamed corn. (I’m ridiculously obsessed).

Step 9: Charcuterie dinner at True North

As mentioned earlier, we wanted to have as much time as possible at the cabin, so we made our way back after drinks to catch the sunset on the deck and just be still. Once the sun dipped down, I made us up a charcuterie board of various things to munch on while we played cards for the evening.

Step 10: Catch the Northern Lights

I know the Northern Lights is a bucket list item for many people, and we were lucky enough to catch them at True North with no city light, street sound, or people inhibiting our views. Conditions have to be just right in order to see them, so if you are able to spot them consider yourself fortunate for capturing one of the great wonders of the north. If nothing else though, get to a spot where you can see the night sky. We also caught several shooting stars, and watched a handful of freighters go by on the water.

That’s how we spent our perfect day in the Keweenaw! It was one of those days that was pure nourishment for the soul, and that’s why I will keep making the seven hour trek to get to the ends of the Earth (practically) to experience the wonder.

& I think you should too!

BONUS Top 4 things we didn’t do, but want to!

Calumet Theatre - this theatre major’s heart can’t wait to tour this 119 year old still operational playspace.
Quincy Mine - we actually took some of my senior pictures here many moons ago and at the time I’m not 100% confident we weren’t trespassing? Oops. No need to worry about trespassing now, because it has been preserved and developed into a great touring experience.
Jamsen’s Fish Market & Bakery - right on the water in Copper Harbor, this looks like a great midmorning stop during our next trip!
Isle Royal National Park - is 10000% on my to do list. You can only arrive by air or sea, and it’s the ultimate Michigan hiking/backpacking/camping experience and i. can’t. wait. to. go.